Ingquza Hill In A Range(R) Rover

“Mpumalanga is the Eastern Cape without the ocean” I said these words after visiting Mpumalanga for the first time in 2004. The Eastern Cape I was referring to is the scenic route between East London and Cape Town, via Jeffreys Bay and Knysna of course. I had just seen something about #MpondolandHike in August 2016 when I decided on a roadtrip to explore the Eastern Cape. I immediately went on the internet and started making plans. I have learned to make plans for I alone and only allow others to joining once I have cemented own arrangements. Humans have a bad habit of making promises and withdrawing at the eleventh hour, no thanks. The plan was to spend Christmas at home as per my father’s instruction and leave the next day. Yes his instructions continue beyond the grave. Love of my life, may he rest in peace. I love you #Chizama.

 

 Itinerary was as follows

1.       Mbewuleni – Thabo Mbeki’s home

2.       Icamagu Institute – The Legendary Dr Nokuzola Mndende’s institute for a book or two on African Traditional Religion

3.       Qunu – Madiba’s residence

4.       King Hintsa’s grave

5.       Coffee Bay -  Hole In the Wall

6.       Port St Johns – 28km Waterfall Bluff Trail

 

Why had I not visited the Transkei until 2016, you ask? The Eastern Cape of today is the combination of Ciskei and Transkei. If you were born after 1994, this means  I would have needed a passport to cross to the Transkei, another country. A country where I probably originate, where people speak my language and have the same clan name yet some European came and drew a line and made us of different nationalities.

 Back to the future…

Hiring a 4x4 and getting with the programme sounded like an idea but my brother, the twin took that burden off my shoulders and allowed me to use his. Bless him. A month or two before Christmas one of my best friends requested to spend Christmas with my family and join my insanity, which was even better. I would be able to monitor his drinking before the trip SMH

         

26 December I collected him at the hotel (do not ask) and we got on the N2. He was so hungover he couldn’t drive the whole way. Nigga what? We arrived eDutywa and headed to Mbewuleni. A few moments later we were at the village and asked locals for directions to the Mbeki house. They led us to a white house as below.

MBEKI HOME

  The house stands empty. Well both sons, President Thabo Mbeki and Moeletsi have own families and Tatú Mbeki no Mama Epainette have since passed to the next life. As we stood outside taking pics, I thought to myself “You know, had I been born in the 50s, I would have married the hell out of thatThabo and our children would be running in this yard” but life … ke tla reng?

 Qunu, we did not expect to see much but an overdose of Madiba (nee’ Nelson Mandela) statues and memorabilia.

 

We were on our way to King Hintsa’s grave, when we witnessed what still haunts me today. Animals roam the streets freely in the rural areas, in fact I skeem we should arm them with walkers' licenses and give them a crash course on rules of the road. On the gravel road via Willowvale we came across a german shepherd. I slowed to down to avoid it. I took my eyes off it to focus back on the road when an oncoming car came speeding and hit the dog. I looked in the rear view and saw it spasm its last breath. I was so heartbroken, I fought tears. I could not believe that I had just witnessed a life being taken away. The driver did not even stop to check on the dog, he went about his business like he had not just taken a life. What have we become?

      

Something caught our interest as we drove closer to Coffee Bay. There were so many drinking joints, not lacking of patrons either. Children in their late teens and early twenties were consuming alcohol in public with no care in the world. I watched with fear and disappointment how the world had changed. I asked myself whether these kids did not care if parents witnessed this unbecoming behaviour. I slapped myself to reality that their parents are probably a few years older than me and are probably drunk as well. Such things remind you that perhaps youre not so young anymore. Within this disorder we noticed  a young man out of his mind, hands on this head. There was four year old kid lying on the ground. He had been hit by a car... well, the dude had hit the kid. Kenny shouted for me to not stop and continue driving. A mere 100m from the accident was a bunch of traffic cops stopping people for breaking rules of the road. Hello?  We stopped and informed them of the accident and continued to Coffee Bay.

      

                                           MY EASTERN CAPE



          

 

 

 

Kenny & I had become so agitated and impatient with one another. Truth is we were struggling to deal with two deaths in one day.

Coffee Bay

We were backpacking and sleeping in a dormitory LOL! I usually say that backpackers are the coolest people. They just don’t give a fck. There’s an honesty “cup” where you make coffee; food; drinks and record what you’ve taken. No, you wouldn’t make it there if you’re the type that lies about little things like that. Have I mentioned that Coffee Bay is known for growing weed? Everyone seemed high, it was funny

        

 Hole In The wall

Following day we were up at 5h30 to make it first to the showers (If you’ve backpacked you’ll understand); packed and left for Hole In the Wall. The roads are sh*tty ok? They are shtty!!! We even considered turning back. We went to reception as soon as we reached the Hole in the Wall resort and asked for a different route to get us to Port St Johns. Our eyes were dilated; palms sweaty we even asked whether there was a 4x4 driver who could take us out of Hole In The Wall. The receptionist probably thought “Just look at these two p*ssies” We were shaken man

 Anyway left with another 2km to Hole in the wall (the wonder itself), we were passed by small sedans and hatchbacks driving like it aint no thang. They were our saving grace, I swear. We relaxed and just continued driving




 

 

 

A stranger took this picture…My travel companion chose to stay at the top cos he is scared of heights. He was too scared to walk down, fear of falling. White people things

Anyway, we headed to Port St Johns, Ingquza Hill would be our final destination for the day. Kenny kept complaining about winding roads in the Eastern Cape. Joburg people know nothing about scenery, we forgive them. They’re used to flat and boring and pay for polluted air, disguised as rates and taxes SMH.

 

We did the Waterfall bluff Trail the following day. 

         

 

This entire roadtrip centred around this Waterfall. Waterfall Bluff is one of only 19 waterfalls world-wide that fall directly into the sea. There are only two such waterfalls in Africa, apparently. It is no less than a spectacular sight.

 

LOOK. AT. THIS

  

I am happy to finally say I know a thing or two about my beautiful Eastern Cape now.

 

Highlights Lowlights and Observations

       1.       Watching animals roam freely.

                                                                                     

2.       Travelling with Kenny, he’s such an alcohol breath of fresh air. I love how we handled the “bad roads (read winding gravel). We were both very agitated but remained civil. CHOOSE YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER VERY WISELY.

        I thank him for attempting the hike with me. He tried bakithi LOL 
 

3. Cuts and bruises. I fell as always. That’s usually the demonstration of how much fun I had
          

The other bruise is from a spider bite. I was out camping in 2015

4.       Bad driver attitude has made to not want to travel in the Transkei for a few years. That dog and child were victims of recklessness in my opinion

5.       Meeting the legendary Dr Nokuzola Mndende, leader of African Indigenous Religion.

A bit of history on how I came to know about Dr Mndende. Ma Mndende hosts Ibuzwa kwabaphambili 5am – 6am every Saturday on Umhlobo Wenene. I heard Ma Mndende’s show for the first time in 2015. It was playing on radio as I was getting ready to go hiking. What caught my attention was her articulation on African Traditional Religion and Christianity. She spoke of how Christians automatically think people who do not know Jesus do not know God. She said “Africans knew Qamata (God) before settlers came to Africa and they sure had religion before Christianity” I have been a loyal listener eversince. A staunch Christian I am, I decided to entertain her thoughts and realised how ignorant and narrow minded we are as a people. We quickly dismiss things we do not understand or rather fear being interrogated on subjects that we THINK we know as that quickly exposes our little understanding . We were on our way back home when we stopped at Icamagu Institute,

     

 

Icamagu ‘Heritage’ Institute is situated at Wakeni Location, just outside Idutywa. I had planned to grab a few books at their library/bookshop to feed the mind. I met a young man working in the garden and asked about where to find the books. He directed me to the rondavel and yelled “Mama unondwendwe (Mama you have a visitor)”

I turned and there she was, walking towards me. I literally ran to her, tears in my eyes and gave her a big hug. I was so starstruck I started praise singing LOL!!! I was not even dressed appropriately for the occasion I simply covered myself with my Kenyan shuka and asked to take pictures with her. She directed me to one particular book and said “Thatha le mntanam. Oh ndiyithethile ke ituwa kulencwadi (Grab this one my child, I spoke so much sht in this book)” Oh my God, here I was cracking jokes with someone I so admire, how good is life?

I sat quietly, smiling ear to ear once Kenny and I got back on the road. He simply said “let me leave you with your thoughts”

                                  He did not understand….but he understood

To Kenny, the horseband: Thank you for making my abnormal feel normal. To the people of EC, uChizama uyabulela. Enkosi

You know there's always a soundtrack, right?

 

Zucchero featuring Cheb Mami - Cosi Celeste

 

"Ivale njenge Diva" as Kenny would say